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Posts: 5

Re: why do I have 24-25-50 fps and not 24-30-60fps in the video settings? Hero7 black

[ New ]

Hi Daniel, happy to receive usable advice. I am pretty new to this as I said, so I am happy with good advice that is not old and makes things easy for me. I bought the hero for my travels to new zealand coming up in december and for other trips with my motorbike or hike.

Got me a gimbal and a bunch of mounts and am experimenting at the moment.

Posts: 13,678

Re: why do I have 24-25-50 fps and not 24-30-60fps in the video settings? Hero7 black

[ New ]


 read up and learn a lot.   New age is plug-n-play this is some old stuff  but there is probably  an updated version to what you want . Dan can find it for you


Night lapse and photo for timelapse click here

Create your own masterpiece and share in the Timelapse section Below.

How to Use Night Photo & Night Lapse 
What are you trying to do?
To effectively use Night Photo or Night Lapse.

Where does it apply?

  • HERO4 cameras

How to do it
Here's a quick video that introduces these features:

You may find this camera icon key useful throughout this article:

First, determine which mode you want to use.

Night Photo
Captures a photo in low light environments, such as capturing the night sky.
To enable Night Photo, select the Mode/Power button until Photo is selected. Press the Settings/Tab button and change the Mode setting to Night.

Night Lapse
Captures a series of photos at specific intervals and exposure times. Use Night Lapse in low light environments, such as when capturing the night sky over a period of time.
To enable Night Lapse, select the Mode/Power button until Multi-Shot is selected. Press the Settings/Tab button and change the Mode setting to Night Lapse.

Once you have the mode set up, it's time to choose the best settings. Settings for Night Photo & Night Lapse are nearly the same as the Standard Photo or Time Lapse with a couple of exceptions:

  • Both Night Photo & Night Lapse allow you to control the camera's Shutter speed.
  • The Interval for Night Lapse ranges from 4 seconds to 60 minutes. Standard Time Lapse intervals range from 0.5 seconds to 60 seconds.

If you want to adjust the shutter speed, follow these steps (ref. p. 37 of the HERO4 Black User Manual):

  1. First press the Mode/Power button until Photo or Multi-Shot is selected.
  2. Press the Settings/Tag button.
  3. Press the Shutter button to change the Mode to Night (Single will be the default selection).
  4. Press the Mode/Power button to highlight Shutter Speed.
  5. Press the Shutter button to select the desired shutter speed (the default will be Auto).

You can use this chart to decide what shutter speed is best for you:
Settings Examples 

2 sec, 5 sec, 10 sec Dawn, dusk, twilight, traffic at night, Ferris wheel, fireworks, light painting (instances in which there is a relatively bright source of light, somewhere in the frame) 

20 Sec Night sky with a distant/minimal light source (e.g., the moon, some light pollution)

30 Sec Night stars, Milky Way (complete darkness)

Auto Sunrise, sunset, dawn, dusk, twilight (the camera will automatically adjust the shutter speed between the fastest possible; 1/4096th of a second, up to 2 seconds) 

In Night Lapse mode, if you want to adjust the interval at which the camera initiates photo capture during the Night Lapse sequence, follow these steps (ref. p. 46 of the HERO4 Black User Manual):

  1. First press the Mode/Power button until Multi-Shot is selected.
  2. Press the Settings/Tag button.
  3. Press the Shutter button to change the Mode to Night Lapse (Burst will be the default selection).
  4. Press the Mode/Power button to highlight Interval.
  5. Press the Shutter button to select the desired Interval (the default will be Continuous).

Note: An interval setting of “Continuous” results in the camera immediately capturing another image after the unit takes the previous photo—the interval will be equal to the selected shutter speed. 

Night Photo/Night Lapse Tips

  • A stable camera is absolutely necessary for crisp images and Night Lapse sequences. The extended exposure/shutter speeds in both Night modes, allow the camera to capture the minimal light available in the scene. Please be aware that this also means that any movement, of the camera or within the scene, will be much more prevalent in a night photo than when using the standard Photo and Time Lapse modes.
  • Using Mounting Accessories like the 3-Way’s built-in tripod, Tripod Mounts, an Adhesive Mount (applied to a stable location), and/or using The Tool to tighten the Thumbscrew will ensure that the camera remains in position.
  • Use the newly available Protune for photo features to fine-tune your Night Photos and Night Lapse images. Protune allows you to alter the White Balance, Color Profile, ISO Limit, Sharpness and Exposure Compensation. An in-depth look at Protune settings can be found, here.
  • Just as with standard time lapse sequences, Night Lapse involves taking photos over an extended period of time. If the situation allows, take a couple of test photos with the camera in position. You can then review the samples using an LCD Touch BacPac, the GoPro App or the HERO4 Silver’s built-in touch display. This method provides an opportunity to make any necessary alterations to the settings, prior to capturing a lengthy Night Lapse sequence.
  • Use our free editing suite; GoPro Studio to compile the sequence, alter the speed of playback, and apply features like color correction and panning.

Image Comparison
Note: All images were taken with a HERO4 Silver mounted to the 3-Way's tripod, and controlled using the GoPro App to keep the camera stable.
Pics 1 & 2 
Shutter Amount of time the image sensor is capturing light.
Shutter: 10 sec | WB: 5500K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: High | EV: 0

Shutter: 30 sec | WB: 5500K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: High | EV: 0

10 sec | Minimal exposure in the dark foreground; offers more detail in the city lights.30 sec | Illuminates the foreground; loss of detail near light source due to over-exposure. 

Pics 3&4
White Balance (WB) Adjusting the overall color tone (warmth of the lighting).

Shutter: 10 sec | WB: 3000K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: High | EV: 0

Shutter: 10 sec | WB: 6500K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: High | EV: 0

A 10 second shutter with a 3000K White Balance setting, giving a cool, blue tone.Note the much warmer hue emitted by the available light. 

Pics 5&6
Color Allows you to adjust the color profile.

Shutter: 10 sec | WB: 3000K | Color: Flat | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: High | EV: 0

Shutter: 10 sec | WB: 3000K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: High | EV: 0

Flat captures more details in shadows & highlights, especially in low-light scenes.GoPro Color enhances contrast and saturation. 

Pics 7&8
ISO Limit (Gain) Adjusts the camera’s sensitivity in low-light environments, and creates a balance between brightness and resulting image noise.

Shutter: 10 sec | WB: 3000K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 400 | Sharpness: High | EV: 0

Shutter: 10 sec | WB: 3000K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: High | EV: 0

A lower ISO will result in darker footage, but will deliver reduced noise/grain.A higher ISO will result in brighter footage, but you may encounter more noise/grain. 

Pics 9&10
Sharpness Alters the acutance (the severity of transitions and boarders) in the image.

Shutter: 10 sec | WB: 3000K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: Low | EV: 0

Shutter: 10 sec | WB: 3000K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: High | EV: 0

Zoomed in ≈12x | Low; softer boarders.Zoomed in ≈12x | High; more defined transition between pixels (e.g., grass and branches). 

Pics 11&12
Exposure Value Compensation (EV) Used for fine-tuning exposure levels.

Shutter: Auto | WB: 3000K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: High | EV: - 2

Shutter: Auto | WB: 3000K | Color: GoPro | ISO: 800 | Sharpness: High | EV: + 2

A very dark scene, further darkened by reducing the exposure compensation.Note the more prevalent glow of the city lights. 

Additional Resources

  • To learn more about the specific Night Photo & Night Lapse modes, feel free to visit Abe Kislevitz’s blog. Abe is one of GoPro's Senior Production Artists and provides great, in-depth information regarding some of the cameras’ more intricate modes.



Posts: 13,029

Re: why do I have 24-25-50 fps and not 24-30-60fps in the video settings? Hero7 black

[ New ]
Fish has given you some great advice. If you're not exhausted from reading it all, I have even more reading for you! 😋

So much of choosing the right settings comes down to your editing software/preference and how you plan to store and view your videos. I used to exclusively edit my videos on my computer with GoPro Studio before advancing to Corel then DaVinci Resolve and finally Adobe Premiere Pro and After Effects. Since most of my videos are of my kids and my own little adventures and activities, I've mostly abandoned desktop editing and mostly just use GoPro QuikStory on my LG v30 phone.

When I do projects for other people I take the time and edit with a proper non-linear editor, but for capturing moments for future looking back memories, Quik Story is my go to. I never thought I'd use it much, but now that I've been doing it consistently, I have way more videos of captured moments than I would of had otherwise.

When shooting for desktop editing, I generally use 4K and 2.7K exclusively. I also use Protune and customize my settings for the moment. However, if I'm just recording for Quik Story video creation, I Misty stick with 1440p and leave the settings on auto. On bright days I'll drop the EV to -0.5 or -1 and usually lock the MAX ISO to either 100 or 200, but that's about it.

What I love about Quik Story is usually by the time I get home a video has already been created for me. I can edit, trim, and split as needed as well as add slow motion, raise or lower the video audio and add a filter if I want. Sometimes I'll combine a few Quik videos to make one longer video. It's also a great way to preview what you have captured.

To understand your camera and the settings better, you should start over at Abe Kislevitz's site (media creature for GoPro). Start your reading with the HERO4 and work your way to the HERO7 Black.

Time lapse and Night Lapse are an awesome feature of the camera so be sure to play around with that. Star trails are very cool to capture as well. See this post to learn more about it

Time Warp is a great way to start and/or end your videos, so don't forget to take some of those as well. I personally think 15x is the best setting for it. Anything slower than 10x gets a little more bumpy.

There is a lot of useless advice about most "cinematic" settings and things like 180-degree shutter angle rule, (doubling the frame rate for your shutter). Most of the advice you watch and read won't apply well to your GoPro. Sometimes it will actually make your video look worse. For example, if you plan on showing down your footage and want it to look crisp and clear, the doubling of the frame rate will make it a blurry mess. You're on the right track testing and trying settings on your own and finding out what works best, for you.

As far as the camera settings, I wrote this on another post but I'll share it here as well:

High frame rates allow for slowing footage down for slow motion effects. Also, since shutter speed is dependent on fps, it also effects how long light can, or cannot expose on the image sensor in the camera. Finally, higher fps takes more processing power and as such, some features become unavailable and overall picture quality can degrade slightly the more frames per second the camera is recording.

The rest of this post is going to be very long and detailed. I suggest you print it out for refference and also so you can use it to ask follow up questions. I also suggest you read the following articles by a GoPro media developer (an actual GoPro employee who makes their videos, not some YouTube wanna be). Read these articles in this order even though they are not all specifically about your camera).

Now, to really go into detail and answer your three questions, a little history about movies and videos is required. Originally, movies were recorded in 16fps. These old black and white movies didn't have live sound recorded to them and instead had subtitle cards displayed and would have music played over the entirety of the film. Latter, an analog sound-on-disc system called Vitaphone was developed to allow for syncing of the actors voices to the movie. To be able to sync properly, the film had to be recorded in 24fps. As technology developed, the cinema standard became recording at 24fps and is still considered more, "Cinematic" looking to many people.

TV and video changed the standard to 30fps. This is because of the US power standard, which uses Alternating Current cycles as 60 sine waves per second. Because of this, TVs were designed for screen updating every 30 frames or two fields of 15 frames each second. To get the best video image, video created for TV traditionally is recorded at 30fps.

Now, with typical computer monitors having a refresh rate of 60Hz, and the latest gaming displays reaching all the way to 240Hz, higher frame rates can be used for even crisper and cleaner looking video. For this reason, many videos that are uploaded to online sources like YouTube use 60fps.

Taking the above into account, the "best" answer to your first question is, "it depends". if you are mainly going to be watching your videos on TV or from a computer or mobile device, the 30 or 60 fps is best. If you want to record for cinema, then 24fps is generally accepted as the "most cinematic".

The decision for choosing a resolution is also dependent on a few factors. higher resolutions take a lot of processing power. This applies to the camera, the video editor/computer, and to the display device. When streaming from a service like YouTube or Vimeo, the amount of bandwidth to transfer the data also comes into play. No matter how high of a resolution and bitrate the video might originally be in when uploaded, YouTube will automatically re-encode the video to a lower and more suitable bitrate and fps for them to display and stream the video efficiently.

For this reason, it's not uncommon to have a beautiful video that plays great directly on your computer, but when you upload it to YouTube suddenly it doesn't look as great or has a lot of artifact. This is one of the reasons why so many "review" videos of cameras are so worthless, because they don't accurately show the capability of the camera. If the reviewer doesn't export and upload the video correctly, it can make even the best cameras look pretty bad.

Your computer and editing software also comes into play when deciding the resolution to record in. You can use Proxies to assist the editing process, but basically if your system cannot handle the higher resolution effectively, it can make editing very laborious and difficult to do.

Higher resolutions do give a better picture when displayed on large screens. however, if the screen is the size of a computer monitor, mobile device, or just an average TV, then the improvement really isn't noticeable. 1080p is High definition so if you aren't watching the video on a screen that supports higher resolution, then there is virtually no benefit to higher resolutions.

Having said all of that, there is a major benefit to recording in higher resolutions. Mostly, this comes when it's time to edit the video. When editing, you decide the sequence settings for your timeline (the place where you put all the video clips together). The sequence's basic settings tell it what type of video you want to create when you export your video. The most important settings are the resolution (size) of the video and how many frames per second to make it (fps).

If you take a 4K video clip and put it into a 1080p sequence, the video clip size will be much bigger than the 1080p sequence borders. If you scale down the video to about 50%, the entire video clip now will fit inside the 1080p boarder. If you leave the video at 100% scale it will basically give you the same effect as if you had zoomed the video, but without losing any resolution or clarity. if you plan on doing a lot of zooming and re-framing, and will use a 1080p sequence, then using a higher resolution to record in can be very beneficial.

For "Best" settings and in different scenarios, the "Best" answer is, It depends. Available light and how you are going to edit really plays more of an impact that a given scenario. For this reason, you want to know and understand all of the camera settings and have a good idea of how they work in different situations, and then make the changes that best suit your artistic needs and desires.

The best advice I can give you is to shoot everything and in different situations and settings until you find out what works best for you. You want to make very short clips (use the quick clip feature to limit to 15 seconds) and announce your settings out load so you can hear them when viewing the clips latter. In general, 2.7K/60fps in Linear mode is a great mode to use and is super versatile and will give you great results. If you edit the footage in a 1080p sequence, you can either shrink the image to fit or use the extra resolution to reframe your image. Learn about keyframing and you will up your edits considerably. For the most part, you don't really need to make many changes; however, I'll go through the settings for what is generally considered the "Best" in most situations. These "Best" settings do require some color grading and sharpening in an editor, so they might not be what you want to use just yet.

Always film with Protune on if you want the highest quality. Even if you don't make any changes, this will increase the recording bitrate and improve your overall video quality. Bitrates determine how much information each pixel can receive, so the higher the bitrate, the higher the quality, but also the larger the file size.

To really get the most from your video edits, then you need to understand color grading and utilizing curves. DaVinci Resolve is the premiere program for this, so I highly recommend it. Even though I use Adobe Premiere Pro, I'll still use DaVinci Resolve sometimes for clips that need a little more fine tuning. There are plenty of YouTube videos to assist you learn and maximize your editing skills.

Deciding on whether or not to use Protune really depends upon your needs.

Protune OFF:

With Protune off, you are using a slightly lower bitrate and settings most likely like this: Shutter Auto, EV 0, ISO MIN 100 (might be 400), ISO MAX 1600, WB Auto, Sharpness High, and Color GoPro (higher saturation, vibrancy, and contrast). Protune OFF works great for mobile editing and for editing on slower computers. It also will use less space on your cameras SD card. Videos usually look very good without needing any editing.

Protune ON (Defaults):

With Protune On (Defaults), the camera uses a higher bit rate (more stored information in each pixel), and the settings are Shutter Auto, EV 0, ISO MIN 100, ISO MAX 1600, WB Auto, Sharpness High, and Color GoPro. This works well for getting similar results as Protune OFF but with a little higher quality. On a mobile device or small screen, you really can't see much difference between OFF and ON. In most cases, if you don't have much experience with cameras, editing, or have very basic to no understanding of the Protune settings, it's best to just keep Protune OFF. Most of the review videos that you see on YouTube are with Protune OFF.

Now, there are times when changing Protune settings is absolutely necessary for getting the best shot. If you are good at color grading, have a good video editor, and a specific idea for how you want to use/edit the video, you will want to make changes to your Protune settings as needed. Even if you are just using the Quik Mobile app, you can improve the look of your videos if you know what you are doing.

I'll try to give a basic explanation of the setting below, but in general, the "Best" settings are:

Shutter Auto

EV -1 (Lowering the ev preserves more of the highlights and forces a faster shutter. In good lighting use -1 and use -0.5 for overcast sky and 0 for lower light).



WB Auto (I prefer to select this manually, but in general, Auto is fine)

Sharpness Medium

Color Flat (It's not going to look great straight out of the camera, but once you start color grading it will look great. Flat color profile gives the most detail in shadows).

Shutter: In most cases, having this set to Auto works best. Shutter speed is represented as a fraction of a second. It's reliant on the fps for how fast/slow it can be set. The faster the shutter, the more detail there will be in each frame, but also less light. The slower the shutter, the more motion blur you will get, but also more light. For action/speed, the rule is to double the fps for a natural motion blur (30fps = 1/60 shutter, 60fps = 1/120 shutter). This does not always look best and if you are going to slow down your footage, you might want a faster shutter so each frame is more crisp. I've found that in lower light/overcast sky, having the shutter at 3X the fps works best with Hypersmooth (avoids blur).

EV (Exposure Value): This kinda works like a filter. Higher numbers will result in a brighter picture, lower in a darker picture. The ev mostly effects your highlights. A lower number (-0.5 & -1) will result in more detail in your highlights and less blow out from the sun. Some people like to use a higher ev in snow to make whites look whiter.
BEST SETTING: -1 will result in the most detail in highlights (can be too dark in shadow and low light)

ISO: The lower the number the cleaner the image, but also the darker the image will be. Always strive to have the lowest ISO possible unless you want it to have an old gritty feel. Higher ISO is for low light, but you also get more noise/grain in your video/photo. Using a high ISO in bright light will result in a very fast shutter and usually a blown out image).
BEST SETTING: ISO MIN and Max 100 (Max 400 with varied light and Max 800 in overcast/low light). If you are using Hypersmooth stabilization in low light/overcast sky, set the MIN to ISO 400.

WB (White Balance): The camera does a pretty good job figuring this out, but to have the most consistent look during a shoot, set this manually. As lighting changes, you must keep changing your WB. Don't use NATIVE unless you are using several different cameras all set to log and you need them all to match perfectly (this is very labor intensive and not really worth it unless you are a professional).
BEST SETTING: Manual based on lighting (Auto works fine usually)

Sharpness: The processing that the camera does when applying sharpness can be a little strong, but also makes GoPro videos look like they do. High sharpness is great when you are just throwing the video up on social media or creating your video with a mobile app like Quik, but if you want the best look, always choose medium or Low. If you are doing desktop editing with a good editor, low is best for the most control when editing. Always use Low sharpness if your ISO is 800 or higher.
BEST SETTING: Low (Medium is the safest setting, and usually looks very good)

Color Profile: GoPro Color looks great and if you don't want to spend more time color grading than it took you to shoot the video, this color profile will save you that time. However, for the most detail in shadows and more control over the overall look of your photos/videos, use a Flat color profile. Using a Flat profile in low light and/or with a high ISO will reduce some of the noise and give you more control when correcting/reducing noise when editing.

For hiking and action with a 1st person POV, and when you might get mixed lighting (in and out of shadows), I would set the WB manually (probably around 5000K), put the EV at -0.5 (-1 if there is a lot of bright light or facing toward the sun), MIN and MAX ISO at 400 (keeps the shutter from going too slow which causes unwanted blur), and use Superview in 2.7K/60fps or either 1440/60fps or 2.7K (4:3)/60fps (all of these will capture more of the vertical scene from the horizon to the trail). A very slight zoom when possible helps to improve the Hypersmooth EIS. Head strap/Hat clip or Helmet mounted on a chinbar looks best, followed by side helmet mounted and then Chesty or backpack strap mounted. Of course, with the amazing Hypersmooth stabilization of the HERO7 black, a selfie stick or just holding the camera in your hand also looks great.

I usually use the following for low light/night video.
Shutter: Auto (sometimes I set this manually)
EV: 0
ISO MIN: 400
ISO MAX: 800 (If it's particularly dark I'll go as high as 1600)
WB: manually selected (usually around the 3000k range)
Sharpness: Low (smooths it out some)
Color: Flat
Auto low light: Off
Fps: 30 or 24 (I'll sometimes use 60fps in low light, but not night)
I keep stabilization off. If I need to use it, I set the shutter to 3x or 4x the frame rate (24fps = 1/96 or 1/192, 30fps = 1/120 or 1/240, 60fps = 1/240 or 1/480). With these shutter speed is hard to get good exposure so I'll bump the ISO to MIN 800 and MAX 1600.

Your best option is to use a proper non-linear video editor. Some free options are:
VSDC on Windows-
DaVinci Resolve

You'll want to select a playback speed of somewhere in the 24fps-30fps range. If you need by percentage, these are safe slow motion settings.
240fps slowed by 25% - 10%
120fps slowed by 50% - 20%
60fps slowed by 50% - 40%
48fps slowed by 62.5% - 50%
Posts: 12

Re: why do I have 24-25-50 fps and not 24-30-60fps in the video settings? Hero7 black

[ New ]

I think it's to do with the settings 'PAL' or 'NTSC'.


Posts: 13,029

Re: why do I have 24-25-50 fps and not 24-30-60fps in the video settings? Hero7 black

[ New ]
It's 100% to do with PAL vs NTSC
Posts: 13,678

Re: why do I have 24-25-50 fps and not 24-30-60fps in the video settings? Hero7 black

[ New ]

Yes the latter heros its in the Region  chapter, the newer its under Flicker  so you hav the Option to change