12-31-2018 05:37 PM
01-01-2019 03:49 AM
Sunny...it means the opposite of popping the new device out of its packaging and then doing unrepeatable and critical shooting seconds later.
If one takes the time to A learn the device and B learn photography / videography (if also new to that) at a quiet time just to get the basics down...then in your actual shooting you'll be much less frustrated.
It's one of my "big secrets" that really helps out.
01-01-2019 04:20 AM
Asking questions here and searching sites, including YouTube videos is a good start, but I agree with @stanleym7236, you really need to just go out and do some test shooting while playing around with the settings. Make short clips and announce out loud what your settings are or write them down and put the paper in front of the camera at the beginning of the recording (I like to write them down on idex cards before I even go out).
I shoot almost everything in 2.7K. Not only do you want "the best quality" but it also has to lend to an enjoyable editing experience. Even with an i7, 32GB RAM, SSD and NVIDIA GTX 1050ti, I find that 4K video editing can be laggy and usually requires creating proxies (which takes more time and hard drive space).
When considering quality, you also have to consider what device you will be playing back and watching the videos on. If you are uploading to YouTube, it's going to do a number on the videos regardless with the YouTube compression. If you are going to be playing back mostly on a mobile device or computer, 1080p is usually more than enough. Even on a wide screen TV, 1080p can look very good. Remember, most everything you watch isn't in 4K anyway.
So, if 1080p is fine, why do I film in 2.7K? Mostly it's just for reframing. I always edit in a 1080p sequence (the timeline where you stitch the video clips together to create your story), so by filming in a higher resolution I can crop and adjust my footage to my liking without losing quality. In 2.7K I need to scale the footage down to 71% to fit, meaning I have 29% to play with for reframing. At 4K I need to scale down to 50%, so while it's certainly more to play with, as long as I was framing my shot to begin with, it mostly un-needed.
The big difference in getting the "best" shot is how you position yourself and the camera in relation to the source light, the correct fps for your activity, having an idea how you want to edit the shots, and then selecting the proper Protune settings (if needed). Mostly, you can get by without making any changes and just using defaults. Even the 4:3 formats can look great when placed in a 16:9 format if you now a little about editing and reframing.
Get a decent editor like Adobe Premier Pro, FCP, or even the free DaVinci Resolve (which in many ways is better than the paid programs). Your ability to edit and put together your clips is going to make the biggest difference of all. If your computer can't handle HEVC, stay away from HEVC formats. For super slow motion shots, use 1080p/120fps. For the rest of your daylight shots, use either 1080p/60fps or 2.7K/60fps. You'll get better battery life from 1080p and 1440p, so unless you really need it, stick with those (1440p or 1080p in Superview is great for skiing and having more vertical coverage). In low light and/or when you don't have high speed or activities where you might want slow motion, use 30fps or even 24fps (24fps in dark environments works best if the camera isn't moving).
01-01-2019 09:51 AM
No, not at all.
For instance, the guy complaining on many forums including here, contacting the Better Business bureau and other consumer agency wants endless 4K 60 looping. Presumably for weeks, months, years in a row.
Heat will be a factor!
I don't loop but can fill cards simply by yanking the battery and running on external power. This removes one of the main heat sources, the battery. Since I know that heat is an issue I keep that in mind when positioning the camera. Some shade would help for example.
Lastly, knowing photography and the intended use for the capture helps one set a mode. 4K at 60 fps for a static scene, esp one without great lighting provides no actual benefits. If the 4end result is just a heat test with zero preparation that is one thing. If an occasional 20 second clip may be pulled from the capture and then shared on social media...well a lower mode would help while not harming the end results.
01-01-2019 06:18 PM
So really, if you've got nothing constructive to add, just go away. If you have something to say that is CRITICAL, it needs to be USEFUL information, otherwise you are here to toot your own. Please read the entire of the thread, as well, so you may understand this isn't asking for miracles here. Just a **bleep** camera that can take more than a few seconds of video, stably, as advertised. (PS, my primary choice is 1440. 4k isn't practical. This is my summarized opinion for my personal use.)
This is NOT even close to what we all paid for. The complaints WILL keep coming in from myself, and other people suffering the same thing.
01-01-2019 06:24 PM
I can't imagine how many GoPro vids & pics I've done over the years.
Heavy use from the 3 onward.
Either I'm the luckiest guy around or what I suggest works since it is all that I do.
Which is simple.
Very satisfied and happy with the best GoPro yet, the Hero Black 7.