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Posts: 8

For action (mountain biking) should I use SuperView + HyperSmooth=on, or Wide + HyperSmooth=boost?

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asking since SuperView isn't compatible with HyperSmooth of more than "on" in the Hero 8 camera.

I want mountain biking clips as stable as possible. My understanding is that SuperView has more FOV for the camera to stabilize, but HyperSmooth "boost" is the highest stabilizing setting.

Which one should I use if I just want the best stabilization?


Posts: 147

Re: For action (mountain biking) should I use SuperView + HyperSmooth=on, or Wide + HyperSmooth=boos

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4k 60 W or L with stabilization ON works great with Chesty. W is real wide since stab ON uses minimal crop. For 2,7 k 60 W and L you get stabil = ON, High, BOOST. Superview has stab = ON and BOOST. In this case BOOST crops Superview so it may look like W. Here is (by my view) best MTB settings:


2.7k 3/4 60


W only


ON, Boost

3/4 allows for vertical alignment, W with BOOST is nearly linear and stabilization is great, W with stab = ON works great too. I use mostly Chesty and 60 fps with 60 fps timeline.

The best is to try all options you like and see for yourself.

Posts: 10

Re: For action (mountain biking) should I use SuperView + HyperSmooth=on, or Wide + HyperSmooth=boos

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the options bovk mentioned are a good starting point.
But keep in mind that Hypersmooth needs good lighting conditions to work it can only work well with sharp images.
Let's say you go for an evening ride in the forest on a cloudy day. That's not the best conditions for Hypersmooth then you usually have to tweak more than just the resolution and FPS or Hypersmooth Mode or you could avoid going with boost and still get good results.

If you leave everything on Auto the GoPro will probably raise the ISO which will result in a super grainy video. To avoid this most people lock MAX ISO at 400 or 800 higher than that and the image quality will really suffer.


But with ISO locked the cam has to lower the shutter speed to make the image brighter which could result in images with motion blur and Hypersmooth starts to struggle.

From what i've seen the video from the GoPro looks brighter than it was in reality that's why a lot of people including me set the EV to -0.5 or -1.0.
If you plan on doing some easy post processing you could go even further as long as you keep those information in the shadows of the image it should be no problem to raise the brightness.
The out of cam result will be a bit darker but it will help Hypersmooth a lot to keep everything stable.

Here's a short clip from some out of cam footage it's not even fast because it's going uphill but you can see as the lighting condition changes Hypersmooth starts to struggle.
It was just recorded for some testing and i used 2.7k / 24fps / Superview / Hypersmooth ON / EV 0 / ISO Max 800.
When you pause the video in different lighting conditions you can see the difference in shutter speed. Is it bright and sunny there is like no motion blur in the image but in the darker areas with bad hypersmooth results you can see the motion blur on the surroundings.
This happens when the shutter speed is too low.
In this scenario i had different options to improve the Hypersmooth result.
- use Boost
- use 60 FPS ( FPS have nothing to do with the brightness or motion blur but it's like a MIN Shutter lock because the GoPro can't set the shutter lower than the FPS so for 60FPS you can't go below 1/60 shutter speed but with 24fps 1/24 would be possible which would result in a lot more motion blur. )
- raise ISO ( will result in grainy images )
- set EV to -1.0

But if you want to keep things really simple and don't care about the crop then keep it in Superview with Boost, maybe lower the EV a little.
If you want to have the best possible results with that superview look you have to fiddle with the settings and get a feeling what works best in your conditions and surroundings.