10-11-2019 06:11 PM
I'm curious if the new Hero8 can mimic the good ol spot meter for my application. I mount my hero4 against the firewall of my car, which means I am not able to access the touchscreen on the back. With the hero 4, I can set the spot meter on and the exposure works - the view outside of the front window isn't washed out.
With the Hero5, no such luck. The app doesn't allow me to adjust the exposure, and since I cannot use Exposure control where it sits, the setup just doesn't work.
With the Hero8, is this fixed? Either being able to set exposure control to the center of the screen via preset, or being able to set it via the app, would satisfy my need.
10-11-2019 10:54 PM
10-12-2019 05:53 AM
Hi! So with the 5, I did try dropping the EV but still got overexposed exterior shots.
As far as protune goes, this is a solution I haven't tried. In the past my experience is that going with Protune mode requires some post production work, which I don't have much time to do. Typically the "out of the box" quality is good enough for my purposes. Is there a way to setup protune to give me the video I'd get without having it on, save for shutter speed and ISO? And if so, can I also save the settings in some way so i don't have to set them each time i turn on the camera?
10-12-2019 05:57 AM
10-17-2019 10:13 PM
After thinking about this more, I have a question. The old "spot meter" would make adjustments for me. Meaning, if while I'm driving its sunny, and then clouds roll in and darken what is outside the car, it will brighten up the picture without my interference. Same thing happens when driving into the sun vs away from the sun (which happens often when you are basically driving in a circle)
Will the suggestions given here - toying around with shutter and ISO - only work so long as the brightness is consistent? Or will leaving enough other things "auto" in protune allow the camera to still adjust to lighting conditions and keep the view outside the car properly exposed?
10-17-2019 10:31 PM - edited 10-17-2019 10:31 PM
Shutter and ISO are what allow the camera to adjust to changing light. Having both locked will take away it's ability to make the changes needed in the scenario you described. Basically, think of ISO as sunglasses that have tint that change in intensity. The darker the tint (Low ISO) the darker everything gets (and also noise/grain is reduced). Shutter is like squinting your eyes. The tighter/more closed (faster shutter) your eyes are, the more focused they become with less light entering (faster shutter gives more detail per frame). In your scenario, one of these has to be left on auto.